Monday, October 13, 2014

CH - Basel

Our visit to Basel was unexpectedly quaint.  Of course I had heard of the internationally known Art Basel show so I figured it to be a very modern city, but also read about it being a major industrial center.   I was intrigued that it is the crossroads of Switzerland, Germany, and France borders.  Other than this, I was clueless about how beautiful and rich in history and culture this city really is.  We spent most of our time in the Old Town and booked a lovely hotel that was modern, but with lots of character, called Der Teufelhof.  This was another ‘on the money’ recommendation from Tayfun (our Zurich friend).  [Side note - we love to talk to the locals (especially Tee!) and get their take on the town.  Usually this gets us the lowdown on what is touristy vs. where the locals prefer to frequent.]  This unique hotel has 33 rooms spread between a historic building (the Art Hotel) and a more modern building (the Gallery Hotel).  The Gallery hotel actually changes the theme of their rooms around different art exhibitions.  Tee and I loved their perfectly Parisian bar and noticed the extensive collection of whiskies, but eventually settled on a nightcap of the local beer suggested by the chicest bartender around (I loved her short haircut and wanted the name of her stylist).   Waking up the next morning to streaming sunlight and a most stunning view of the historic Basel rooftops was all I needed to pop out of bed and get started on my one day tour of the city.  Some of our favorite stops below in pictures…




Tee looking out of our hotel window while I started the exploration a bit earlier.  I love to walk around and window shop before the stores open, making my list of where to return. 



Our view from the top of the hotel overlooking the Old Town of Basel.  



The small streets of Old Town wind up, down, and all around making it easy to get lost (sometimes a good thing!)  The vibrant flowers in the windowsills were bursting forth as if exploding out of the windows.  Makes me wish I had a green thumb! 






Munsterplatz - catching a brief moment on the square when very few tourists were around and a biker rode by at the perfect time.  Tee and I sat on a bench in the square, to soak in the gorgeous day and listened to the nearby schoolchildren singing through the open windows. 



Tee loved this sundial clock on the Munster church, a major landmark in the city.  He finds the most simple logic to be very interesting!   



A view of the same church from across the river.  The red sandstone architecture and colored roof tiles in green, yellow, and red made it standout amongst the traditional gray stone cathedrals that you see in Europe.  Across the Rhine River is where most of Basel’s inhabitants live and here is where we decided to have lunch.



The river peaks out through the small sliver of the alleyway on the way to lunch.  Here we saw many more locals than tourists, all going about their busy weekday.  We start to realize that we are losing track of the days of the week!



Before we left this area, Tee was really itching to have a good schnitzel dish.  I love schnitzel as well but I also love the accompaniments…usually a cool cucumber and potato salad with fresh dill and lingonberry compote.  The one we found at Volkshaus Basel was perfect and reminded us of our favorite NYC schnitzel at Blaue Gans.  We sat outside under a canopy of trees and considered whether it gets any more perfect than this.  So starts my desire to always eat outside and enjoy the Spring-like weather we have had since we arrived.  



We could not leave without a stop to a Swiss chocolate store.  This chocolatier, called Laederach, had large slabs of fresh chocolate in all types, flavors, and toppings.  You choose and they break off a piece to your preferred size and charge by the weight.  Tee chose a white chocolate topped with dried fruits and pistachios and I chose a white chocolate with crushed raspberry and blackberry, yum.  We have been eating Swiss chocolate ever since, buying bars of it along the way during our road trip!



Links of Note:

Der Teufelhof Basel - www.teufelhof.com

Volkshaus Basel - http://volkshaus-basel.ch

Laederach Chocolates - www.laederach.com/ch

Marinsel – Swiss leather bags - http://marinsel.ch/shop/

Santa Pasta – an on the go Italian pasta place with lines out the door at lunch time!  Their version of a Chipotle?? - www.santapasta.com


Saturday, October 11, 2014

CH - Zurich

Tee and I both have fond memories of Switzerland but have never been to the country together.  We often talk about it being one of our hypothetical “places we would live” so it felt important to visit this country as a couple, finally.  We chose Zurich and Basel to explore over a very short three-day period on our way to Alsace (our first official region of France).    

A tour of Zurich via photos:


Lunch at Adlisberg - a local spot we heard about after meeting our new friend Tayfun, the AGM of the Hotel Helvetia in downtown Zurich (see link below).  This perfect little tavern in the hills of Zurich features regional food and pays tribute to the traditional Swiss culture.  The image above was taken after a fantastic meal and helps Tee remember the wonderful feeling of arriving to the restaurant to a glass of crisp white wine and a Swiss male waiter in full leiderhosen attire (two of Tee’s favorites) after 30 minutes of searching for a parking spot amongst the vintage car show goers along the hillside.  Although there was not a single customer speaking English at this restaurant, we lucked out with our Swiss garcon who not only spoke excellent English but was also a bit of a comedian.  I couldn’t resist a photo with him at the end of our meal (see below).  We also met up with some beautiful Highland cattle hanging out in the cool mud during our post brunch “too stuffed to get back in the car immediately” walk.






The Dolder Grand Hotel – view overlooking Lake Zurich.  Stopped in for a glass of champagne and discovered this incredibly beautiful resort.  Definitely a place to return to and stay!





Back down at sea level, we had just enough time to walk along the lake and watch the boats go by before we had to say goodbye to this picturesque city. 





Before heading to Basel we were lucky to be hosted for dinner by our good friend, Arian’s, wonderful aunt and uncle, Jila and Cirous.  This most gracious couple has lived just outside of Zurich for over 30 years.  Finding their home at dusk was an interesting journey, as Tee was looking for, in his words, “a lone gingerbread house in the hills” that he remembered visiting 10 years ago with Arian after a long night of drinking in the city.  Needless to say, the house was neither gingerbread style nor alone in the hills.   It’s funny how vivid certain details of a trip can be and yet incorrect.  Makes me feel better about writing all of this down!   


Our first home cooked meal of the trip was a delicious spread of braised dishes of chicken and lamb, Persian rice with the perfect tah dig (or golden crust), and a Mast-o-Khiar (yogurt & cucumber dip) sprinkled with dried herbs including mint and rose petals.  Dinner was followed by an array of sweets…my favorite being the Nokhodchi, or chickpea cookies, and the accompanied fresh mint tea – simply made by adding a handful of fresh mint leaves from the backyard garden into just boiled water (try this at home!)
 

Links of Note:

Hotel Helvetia - www.hotel-helvetia.ch
Dolder Grand Hotel - www.thedoldergrand.com
Restaurant Volkshaus - www.restaurantvolkshaus.ch